The Hero with 1000 Facemasks: Part 4

My favorite addiction!

Nothing in skincare is more addictive than face masks for an Esthetician…. deciding which one to use can be a daunting task! And this is not true only for us skincare professionals, but for consumers as well. My short answer is, why choose? If they are of high quality…use them all!

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Clay / Mud Masks:

Clay masks have traditionally been used for their absorbing qualities. Many clays or muds will help to draw out impurities and remove toxins from the skin. In my opinion, clay mask formulas have been getting more advanced and I have seen many that now that have added benefits of powerful moisturizers and antioxidants for the skin. I especially love the creamier versions of clay masks. These more advanced clay versions allow the mask to perform the dual purposes of purifying the skin while improving the overall health/appearance of the skin and surface hydration. My preference are ones that dry to more of a soft clay finish than ones that get so hard they almost crumble off the skin. The latter can be challenging to remove, especially in a professional setting. I also tend to place the cream and mud based charcoal masks in this category since they are similar in attempting to draw out impurities and detoxify the skin.


Both Retail and Back Bar


Most skin types can benefit from some form of a clay mask but resilient skin and environmentally damaged skin conditions tolerate them the best.


  1. ExPurtise Selfie Mask
  2. DermaMed Hydra Repair Mask
  3. NatPure Detoxifying Mud Masque
  4. Prana SpaCeuticals Activated Charcoal Masque

Traditional Enzyme Masks:

Enzyme masks have become a staple for every esthetician in her/his treatment room. Enzymes are excellent for the exfoliation of dead surface skin cells and provide the esthetician with options for gentle services or advanced services. By “gentle” I mean that if a client has skin that is not conditioned enough for a traditional peel or even a physical type of exfoliation, an application of an enzyme mask allows the esthetician to smooth the surface of the skin gently and see how her clients skin responds to the service. The enzymatic actions affect the upper layer of your clients’ skin which is made of dead skin cells containing keratin protein. Enzymes work by specifically breaking down the keratin protein, allowing them to come off which results in smoother skin. By “advanced services” I mean the experienced esthetician will be able to combine enzymes and peels and/or physical forms of exfoliation for a more dramatic client result. As far as retail goes, there are many gentle enzyme products made for retail that can help your client maintain the professional services you provide by using them weekly at home between her services. Important to note that there are also enzymes that are formulated in stronger concentrations and should only be used as a back-bar service.


Retail (gentle formulas) Back Bar (professional formulas)


Most skin types will be able to use an enzyme but it’s important to read ingredients and look at manufacturers suggestions to match the client’s skin with the correct enzyme.


Again, so many I love, but here’s a few…

  1. Pro only – Revitalizing Masque from PCA SKIN
  2. Pro only – Cocoa Enzyme Set Circadia By Dr. Pugliese
  3. Pro-only AnteAge Regenzyme
  4. Retail and Pro-use – Prana Hydro Thermal Enzyme Masque
  5. Retail and Pro use – ExPurtise Effective Anti-aging Enzyme Peel

And that ends Part 4 of The Hero with 1000 Facemasks. Check back soon for Part 5: Gel & Topical Light Infusion!

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